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ºê¸®¾ß »ç¹Ù·© Brillat-savarin : You are what you ate   

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- »þ¹Ù·© : You are what you eat Àǹ̺¯Áú

ÇÁ¶û½ºÀÇ Á¤Ä¡°¡ÀÌÀÚ ¹Ì½Ä°¡ÀÎ ºê¸®¾ß »ç¹Ù·©(Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin)Àº ¡º¹Ì½Ä¿¹Âù¡»¿¡¼­ ÀÌ·¸°Ô ¸»Çß´Ù.
Àå ¾ÓÅÚ¹Ç ºê¸®¾ß »ç¹Ù·©(Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, 1755³â 4¿ù 1ÀÏ ~ 1826³â 2¿ù 2ÀÏ Æĸ®)Àº ÇÁ¶û½ºÀÇ ¹ý°üÀÌÀÚ ¹Ì½Ä°¡·Î, ÇÁ¶û½º¿Í ¹Ì±¹ÀÇ »ç¹ý°è¿¡¼­ ¹ý°üÀ¸·Î È°µ¿ÇßÀ¸³ª ¹Ì½ÄÆò·Ð°¡·Î¼­ ´õ ¸í¼ºÀ» ¾ò¾ú´Ù. ±×ÀÇ Àú¼­ ¡¶¹Ì½Ä¿¹Âù¡·(¿øÁ¦´Â ¡®¹Ì°¢ÀÇ »ý¸®ÇС¯, Physiologie du goût)À¸·Î ³Î¸® ¾Ë·ÁÁ® ÀÖ´Ù. ¡°±×¸®¸ð¿Í ºê¸®¾ß »þ¹Ù·©, »ç½Ç»ó ÀÌµé µÎ ÀÛ°¡°¡ ½Äµµ¶ô ¿¡¼¼À̶ó´Â À帣ÀÇ ¸ðµç °ÍÀ» ¹ß°ßÇÑ °Í¡±[1]À̶ó°í ÆòÇÒ Á¤µµ·Î ÀÌÁ¦´Â ¹Ì½Ä ´ã·ÐÀÇ °æÀü±ÞÀÌ µÇ¾î¹ö¸° Ã¥ÀÌ´Ù.

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"Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are."
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Brillat-Savarin is often considered as the father of low-carbohydrate diet. He considered sugar and white flour to be the cause of obesity and he suggested instead protein-rich ingredients. Sure enough, carnivorous animals never grow fat (consider wolves, jackals, birds of prey, crows, etc.). Herbivorous animals do not grow fat easily, at least until age has reduced them to a state of inactivity; but they fatten very quickly as soon as they begin to be fed on potatoes, grain, or any kind of flour. ... The second of the chief causes of obesity is the floury and starchy substances which man makes the prime ingredients of his daily nourishment. As we have said already, all animals that live on farinaceous food grow fat willy-nilly; and man is no exception to the universal law.

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He compared after-taste, the perfume or fragrance of food, to musical harmonics (Meditation ii): "but for the odor which is felt in the back of the mouth, the sensation of taste would be but obtuse and imperfect."
An avid cheese lover, Brillat-Savarin remarked: "A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye."
"A man who was fond of wine was offered some grapes at dessert after dinner. 'Much obliged,' said he, pushing the plate aside, 'I am not accustomed to take my wine in pills.'"
"To receive guests is to take charge of their happiness during the entire time they are under your roof.'"
"Cooking is one of the oldest arts and one that has rendered us the most important service in civic life."
"The pleasure of the table belongs to all ages, to all conditions, to all countries, and to all areas; it mingles with all other pleasures, and remains at last to console us for their departure."

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin wrote the first treatise (or at least the most famous) on good food appreciation; La Physiologie du Gout or The Physiology of Taste, self-published in 1825. Brillat-Savarin was undoubtedly one of the greatest gastronomes the world has ever known. His work is still quoted in foodie circles, and his aphorisms are now classics. But the underlying purpose of his work was to discuss the pleasures of the palate and gastronomy in general.

Brillat-Savarin was a lawyer by training, but he examined food perception and pleasure with a scientific bent. As I went through his book, page by page, I was struck by the fact that I was, in essence, updating this classic work. Much has been learned in the ensuing 180 years, and I thought it would be instructive to revisit and update his writings with the most recent studies in food perception and physiology. I found his work inspirational—and the present effort is not only an update but serves as a small tribute. In fact, I discovered his book about two years after I started my explorations into food pleasure, in 1985. The entire work is available on the internet from eBooks@Adelaide.3

He wrote twenty aphorisms at the start of his book; I¡¯ve selected a few for an updated physiological review. The aphorisms are in my own words:

1. A nation¡¯s fate depends upon their food supply.
• Food and culture have always been closely linked, whether it¡¯s the soybean in China or the potato in Ireland. The spice and salt cravings alone accounted for spirited human interaction among nations in trade, commerce, and warfare.

2. You are what you eat.
• Humans require the most diverse diet of any species, with a daily requirement of over fifty macronutrients, vitamins, minerals, and vitamin cofactors. This requires an equally complex food sensory system for the detection, appreciation, and assimilation of these essential nutrients.

3. God created appetite, to reward us for eating.
• Dr. Robert Hyde, a professor at San Jose State University, has written about the importance of ingestion and pleasure; he refers to cuisine and food intake as the primary pleasure. Consuming enough salt, fat, sugar, and protein would indeed be tedious unless they excited pleasure sensations—both oral and gastrointestinal.

4. Of all the senses, the pleasure of eating remains the strongest and most comforting.
• The sense of taste is a very durable sensation, with little loss in acuity over time in healthy, adults. Olfaction, however, is more fragile, with perceptible losses in discrimination starting as early as sixty years of age; and the deterioration in aroma detection and discrimination is higher in men than women.

5. The first hour of dinner is never dull.
• The pleasures of eating can be sustained if the courses and construction are interesting and varied. Escoffier used to say that the perfect meal should last about two hours. And in French cuisine, the serving of hors-d¡¯oeuvres (or the British ¡°elevenses,¡± the Chinese ¡°dim sum,¡± the Spanish ¡°tapas¡±) extends the pleasures of the palate as long as the dishes are small, light, and varied in flavors and textures.

6. Creating a new dish is more important than finding a new star.
• Certain dishes do inspire us, whether it is the simple French fry potato or the fancier cone-shaped coronet found at the French Laundry. When steak au poivre was first invented in France, it became a national sensation. Paul Prudhomme¡¯s blackened fish technique, served at his K-Paul restaurant in New Orleans, was emulated by just about every culinary cognoscenti and upscale restaurant.

The next three aphorisms deal with E. T. Rolls¡¯ (neural) discovery of sensory specific satiety, where after about ten minutes of food ingestion one dulls to the sensory characteristics of that food (color, texture, taste, and aroma). He found that certain neurons in the orbitofrontal cortex stop responding to that food, thus reducing food pleasure.4 Thomas Keller calls this effect the law of diminishing returns, a phenomenon he experienced a long time ago—the first beer on a hot day is great tasting, but the pleasure soon decreases in the second or third.5

7. Dining should start with the strongest flavor food and move toward the lightest.

8. Drinking during eating should be from the lightest to the most perfumed and aromatic.

9. Appreciation of good food and wine is dulled by too much wine.

The next observation fits in perfectly with humans as cookivores, where fire and food became the perfect natural partners with our inborn, meat-eating genetics.


10. All men prefer the roasting of meat, right from birth.

Brillat-Savarin took his guests¡¯ happiness very seriously. The next set of aphorisms reveals his commitment to food excellence and camaraderie. These are very similar to the comments by Keller and Bourdain, who maintain that preparing food for your friends and seeing them satisfied are the only reasons you create the best food you can. Bourdain writes that ¡°the greatest and most memorable meals are as much about who you ate with as they are about what you ate ¡¦ just as you must respect your guests, however witless and unappreciative they might be. Ultimately, you are cooking for yourself.¡±1

11. A man should not have friends unless their dinner needs are met.

12. The house coffee must be excellent and all liquors first-rate.

13. Proper entertaining requires that dispensing happiness to all in the house.

These aphorisms—or, more appropriately, observations—are actually principles on the importance of food intake in humans, its reinforcing power, and how to maximize the reward potentials in the food and wine served. The rest of his book is sprinkled with similar physiological observations of food perception, intake, digestion, and the proper techniques of cuisine appreciation. So let¡¯s examine some additional Brillat-Savarin¡¯s culinary observations comparing them to modern food and physiological research. (In his book, he often calls himself the professor and the reader the student!)

1. Brillat-Savarin lists at least six senses—sight, hearing, smell, taste, touch, and physical desire. I believe the number is closer to twenty, as humans possess increasingly complex sensations that seem to be separate and distinct, such as the positional sense (you innately know where your body parts are in space). And some scientists believe that each sense of taste (salty, sweet, sour, bitter, vanilloid, umami, water, and fatty taste) may be its own separate sensory dimension.
2. Brillat-Savarin notes that each sensation has an artistic and hedonic component, which I believe as well. Taste and smell are primary reinforcers and are intricately wired into the pleasure centers—in fact, they are the drivers of ingestion and proper food selection. And as we have discussed, visual interest in movies and video games is guided by endorphins even at the highest levels of processing.
3. Taste, notes Brillat-Savarin, is roused to action by appetite and hunger. His observation has now advanced to even single-cell recordings in the brain as performed by E. T. Rolls, who discovers that feeding induces a satiety to the sensory properties of that food, whether it¡¯s texture, color, aroma, or taste; certain neurons in the orbitofrontal cortex just stop responding. In addition, Brillat-Savarin correctly points out that taste is a pleasure, and it encourages food consumption; it is the gatekeeper of the mouth that protects us from harmful substances. His description of taste in a man whose tongue was cut out—well, you will need to read it for yourself—demonstrates that we have taste receptors over the entire oral cavity, but most of them are sensitive to bitter and sour substances.
4. Brillat-Savarin brilliantly deduces that some of us have more taste sensation in the mouth than others; we now describe this phenomenon as those who are ¡°supertasters.¡± The term was coined by Dr. Linda Bartoshuk to describe individuals with elevated taste response. Supertasters may have many more taste buds than nontasters (25 percent of the population), and medium tasters (50 percent).6
5. Brillat-Savarin says water has no taste. However, we know from the work of Dr. Edmund Rolls that water does indeed have a sensation all its own—in the orbitofrontal cortex—and that water taste is naturally rewarding, because it may activate the hedonic tastes of salt and sugar.7
6. Brillat-Savarin correctly points out that the act of swallowing is the crescendo for flavor and taste reward. Swallowing activates the final perception of food via retronasal aroma perception (back of the throat).
7. Brillat-Savarin comments on the sad truth that the strength of suffering in man is stronger than pleasure. This is an astute but unfortunate fact of physiology. The perception of pain is vital to sustain (protect) life itself, but the perception of pleasure is the driver of higher-order functions and complex behaviors. As Biederman and Vessel (2006) explain, humans are ¡°infovores;¡± the brain craves sensory information and uses pleasure as the common currency to influence advanced behaviors.8 Individuals who do not feel pain, due to a brain lesion or similar incident, usually don¡¯t live very long, because cuts, abrasions, and bumps lead to infection and death.
8. Brillat-Savarin says that when we eat we have the sensation of feeling good. We now know that foods contain nutrients that interact with many receptors, nerves, and hormones—all of which affect higher brain centers in a complex and rewarding manner. For example, studies in both humans and animals demonstrate that food ingestion produces a calmness, and feelings of conviviality. And the act of just filling the stomach with nutrients is pleasurable as well.9,10,11



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