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Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a polymer of the amino acid glutamic acid (GA). Gamma PGA (Poly-¥ã-glutamic acid, ¥ã-PGA) - the form where the peptide bonds are between the amino group of GA and the carboxyl group at the end of the GA side chain) - is a major constituent of the Japanese food natto. Gamma PGA is formed by bacterial fermentation.
Gamma PGA has a wide number of potential uses ranging from food and medicine to water treatment. It is widely being used as a drug delivery system in cancer treatment[1] and research is underway for its application in a treatment of type I diabetes and its potential use in the production of an AIDS vaccine.

 

Long-lasting Moisturization[edit]

With strong moisturizing ability, the side chain of gamma PGA can enhance the moisturizing capability of skin without breaking moisture balance of skin. When integrated into skin-care products, gamma PGA can strengthen the moisturizing ability of skin and prevent skin from drying.
The higher the molecule weight, the stronger the winding effect between molecules. As the molecule network becomes larger, a gamma PGA elastic film will form on the surface of skin. Due to its unique molecule structure, gamma PGA (HM) can absorb and retain skin moisture efficiently and form a silky film on the surface of skin. It can effectively prevent the skin from long-time drying condition, especially in air-conditioned rooms or in cold dry winter. Gamma PGA enhances skin smoothness, reduces wrinkles and improves elasticity of skin.
The compound of gamma PGA (HM) and gamma PGA (LM) has better moisturizing efficacy. GammaPGA (HM) can form a protective film on the surface of skin to prevent loss of moisture. Meanwhile, gamma PGA (LM) can nourish skin to deep layer by locking more moisture and nutrients. Adding 3%o of compound gamma PGA HM and at a ratio of 1: 1 can enhance the moisturizing effect and synergistically improve the effect of active ingredients in facial cream.

Synergy Effect[edit]

Moisture is a key factor to keep the skin healthy. Gamma PGA can not only efficiently increase the moisture of skin but participate in the metabolic activity of skin to improve the health condition of skin.

Increasing and Maintaining HA of Skin[edit]


As a basic component of skin, Hyaluronic Acid (HA) can lock the moisture of the skin and maintain its elasticity, but HA can hydrolyzed very quickly by hyaluronidase (HAase£© of skin. Gamma PGA can increase and maintain the content of HA. Especially, gamma PGA (LM) can effectively inhibit the HAase in skin. The HA content is remarkably increased for the higher concentration of gamma PGA (LM). It shows that gamma PGA (LM) and HA can improve skin moisture, elasticity and skin appearance in a synergistic manner.

Effectively Increasing NMF in Inner Skin[edit]

As a hygroscopic material produced by skin, Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) provides moisture for skin in cuticle. The NMF including amino acids which are hydrolyzed on skin matrix protein (e.g. Filament aggregating protein), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), lactic acid and urocanic acid (UCA) can retain moisture of skin. Gamma PGA is the only effective ingredient that is known till now to induce the production of NMF to 130% of the normal level. Gamma PGA can lock the moisture in inner skin by promoting the growth of fibroblast and increasing the content of NMF in horn cells.

Improving Nutrient Supply[edit]

Thanks to its controlled release property, gamma PGA can control the release of nutrients and moisture in a continuous manner. Each gamma PGA monomer has ionized groups like¥á COOR, -CO and -NH, which can absorb electropositive nutrients. Hence a good embedding delivery system is created and active ingredients in cosmetics can possibly maximize their efficacy.

Healthy Whitening Efficacy[edit]

Gamma PGA can also whiten skin by controlling melanin synthesis to prevent and reduce wrinkle's. Ultraviolet irradiation is the main incentive of tyrosinase, which in tum induces the formation of Melanin. As gamma PGA, either HM gamma PGA (0.5%) or LM gamma PGA (0.5%) can effectively inhibit the formation of melanin. Meanwhile, gamma PGA can form a film upon surface of skin which fences out ultraviolet.

Applications of Gamma PGA in Skin-care Products[edit]

Gamma PGA has excellent compatibility in non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants. It is a perfect ingredient for cream, essence, astringent, face mask, eye gel, sun cream, shampoo, body wash, lotion, hairstyle formula and so on.

Safety Concern[edit]

Freda cosmetics grade gamma PGA meets USP/NF standards, with TPC lOOcfu£¬ Staphylococcusaureus tested negative and yeast and mold OOcfu/g. It is suitable for all kinds of cosmetics and personal care applications with no safety concern.

Flexibility in Formula[edit]

Gamma PGA is an ideal moisturizer with high compatibility with other cosmetics materials. Dosage of the material depends on the function of the skin-care products. nearally suggest dosage of gamma PGA (HM) is 5%o. Gamma PGA (HM) is more suitable for anti-wrinkle, UV pr venting and moisturizing strengthening products, suggested dosage is 1%¡££­3 %. Gamma PGA (LM) is better for facial masks and whitening products thanks to its nutrition transdermal absorption and melanin inhibition effect, and the suggested dosage is 3%o.

 

 


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