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Vanilla is the most popular flavoring for ice cream. The type, or "category," of vanilla used determines how ice cream is labeled:

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• Category 1: Natural vanilla extract. Two-fold vanilla is commonly used. Ice cream products must be labeled as "vanilla ice cream."
• Category 2: Vanilla-vanillin extract. This is considered natural and artificial (N&A), where the natural component is the characterizing flavor. Ice cream products must be labeled as "vanilla flavored ice cream."
• Category 3: Natural and artificial vanilla flavors or artificial vanilla flavors, where the artificial component predominates. Ice cream products must be labeled "artificially flavored vanilla ice cream."

Altering the balance of ingredients such as fat, sweetener, or milk solids in dairy product formulations means that food product designers may need to alter their flavor systems, as well. Changing one or more ingredients usually affects the type of vanilla used in the product, a consideration that is often ignored.

The amount of fat in ice creams greatly influences the type of vanilla used. "With a 10% to 14% butterfat content, Bourbons work very well," according to Craig Neilsen, vice president, Neilsen-Massey Vanillas, Waukegan, IL. "At the 14% to 16% fat level, the fat tends to mask the vanilla flavor, so a blend of Bourbon/Indonesian is more effective. This blend delivers an initial impact of vanilla in the front of the mouth, followed by the Bourbon in the back of the mouth. As the fat increases, the overrun decreases, which impacts the level of vanilla. Generally, you have to use more vanilla in a higher fat base because there isn't as much air carrying it through to the product."

Although pure vanilla extract may be used in low-fat bases, it does not work well in no-fat systems. "The majority of customers run into problems when formulating low- or no-fat dairy products," says Joni Diedrich, a flavorist in Baltimore.

Either vanilla WONF or N&A vanilla flavors work better than straight extracts, according to Diedrich. "This gives you more flexibility for adding the notes necessary to cover up the 'cardboardy,' gummy, starchy notes often introduced in a low- or no-fat system," she says. "You may need to add creamy, buttery notes, or a masking flavor that has a blend of sweet, brown, buttery notes in order to cover up the off notes in the base.

"In general, you have to use about 50% more vanilla flavor in low- or no-fat systems in order to produce the best-tasting products," Diedrich continues. "If you require extracts in your dairy products, you can either try Bourbon vanilla by itself or a blend of a Bourbon and a high quality Indonesian. Low quality Indonesians come across as smoky and phenolic, and do nothing to improve the flavor in low- and no fat bases. Although Tahitian vanillas may blend well in higher fat bases, their fruitiness is often accentuated in reduced-fat products."

Says Kuster: "When alternative sweeteners are used in dairy products, you must usually alter the type of vanilla used in the formulation. Every change that is introduced alters the flavor profile of your product. For example, you probably couldn't use the same vanilla in a sugar-free ice cream mix as in a sucrose-based mix. You need to evaluate the sugarfree base independently. Whenever you make a change in a base formulation, you need to consider the impact of that change on your vanilla. Your current vanilla may no longer deliver the flavor impact or performance that your product requires."

The type of milk solids used in ice cream mixes is also an important factor for selecting vanillas. "Whether your formulation includes fresh milk and cream, nonfat dry milk, or whey solids affects the flavor profile of the base before it's flavored," says Kuster "This influences your selection of the proper type, usage and blend of vanilla for optimum flavor."

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Pure vanilla extract is generally not used for baking because the aromatic components of extracts begin to volatilize at about 280?to 300°F, a temperature that is readily attained in cookie baking. Cakes rarely exceed 210°F internally, so an extract or blend of extracts may be used successfully, but a stronger extract such as a two-fold may be more effective. Vanilla-vanillin extracts and artificial flavors are generally recommended for baking applications. Natural and/or artificial flavors give food product designers the added benefit of blending vanilla with various flavor notes such as buttery, nutty and brown sugar.

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Vanilla is an important flavor component in colas, in addition to the complex of spice and citrus notes. A recent publication listed vanilla as well as 25 other flavor notes responsible for a cola flavor. Cream sodas, root beer, and some fruit beverages also may contain vanilla.

Vanillin or vanilla flavors are used in many alcoholic beverages, such as whiskeys, cordials and cocktails, to round out and smooth the harsh edges of the alcohol. In whiskey products, vanillin is one of the chemicals extracted from the oak barrels in which the products age. Generally, vanillin and flavorings, rather than vanilla extract, are used in alcohol-containing beverages because of the regulations governing this industry.

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Vanilla and sweet goods go hand in hand, but have you ever thought of vanilla vinaigrette, vanilla glaze over pork, or vanilla stir-fry? Product developers who are looking for unique flavor profiles in savory applications may try using vanilla to boost or blend flavors.

"The potential use of vanilla extract in savory applications is limited only by a developer's creativity," according to Marianne Gillette, market manager for McCormick Flavors, Hunt Valley, MD.

The food product designers at McCormick have come up with an entire luncheon menu, from appetizers to desserts, that incorporates vanilla extract into the three applications noted above, as well as Tournedos with Mushrooms Madagascar, Vanilla Apricot Fried Rice, Vanilla Baked Beans, and Grilled Shrimp in Vanilla Sauce. According to the description r the shrimp dish, "Pure vanilla extract mel melds the flavors of garlic and bay leaf in a light sauce."

Vanilla is also featured in many non-traditional recipes, such as cream of chicken and vanilla soup, vanilla mayonnaise, and vanilla baked acorn squash, in the Vanilla Cookbook, by Patricia Rain.

"Vanilla is a wonderful flavor enhancer that boosts the flavor of savory as well as sweet products," says Gillette. "When vanilla is used as a subtle, background note (usage level less than 0.5%), it brings out desirable flavor notes and rounds out flavor profiles." She notes her own home use of vanilla extract in spaghetti and seafood sauces. Other possibilities include dishes with chicken, pot roast, spare ribs, chili, and macaroni and cheese.

"You only need to add a dash. The idea is not to taste vanilla, but to marry the flavors," Gillette adds.