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Garlic has been used in food seasoning and medicine for many thousands of years. Mummies were buried with it (perhaps five thousand years ago), and a surprisingly large number of cultures cook with it, even if it was just recently introduced into their food supply (as is the case with the French). The medicinal benefits include positive effects on the cardiovascular system (lower blood pressure), reduced blood viscosity, reduced rates of certain cancers, antibiotic-like effects, and increased response of the immune system to stress. All of these actions are due to the sulfur atom containing compounds when garlic is ingested. Sulfur compounds are highly reactive, not only do they interact with themselves, but they act as both pro- and anti-oxidants in body tissues.

Garlic aroma is created when a garlic compound called alliin is broken down by the enzyme allinase into allicin, which is activated during crushing or smashing of the clove. The enzyme, which is inside certain garlic cells, is suddenly released during crushing and then acts quickly on its substrate, alliin. Allicin is a very unstable molecule and rapidly breaks down into many hundreds of additional organosulfur flavor compounds. Some of them include ajoene, methyl ajoene, dithiins, diallyl disulfide, and diallyl trisulfide (which are strong smelling). This reaction, alliin into allicin, is stopped or greatly reduced by roasting whole garlic, because the enzyme allinase is destroyed by heat. Alliin, by itself, has no aroma whatsoever.

The peculiar nature of the chemical structure of the flavor compounds formed is very important to the flavor and perception of garlic. Many of the sulfur compounds created are powerful aromatics that we can detect in small amounts, such as just a few parts per billion. In addition, many of the flavor compounds are lipid soluble and have what I call a long hang-time, not only in the house but the body as well. In fact, ingestion of garlic generates flavor compounds that stay in the bloodstream and are breathed out via the lungs and skin pores. This is the true mechanism of garlic breath and not the residual garlic in the mouth after eating. For the first three hours after eating, a person suffers from some garlic breath, but most of the garlic smell exudes from the lung tissue, which has a huge surface volume for volatiles to exude. Scott believes the garlic compounds last up to twenty-four hours in the body—mainly allyl methyl sulphide, dimethyl sulphide, and acetone.2 Although breath mints may handle the oral odor, they won¡¯t touch the internal—in this case you need a special mushroom that has been shown to reduce garlic body odor—Agaricus bisporus.

Infants like the taste of garlic as well. It has been reported that infants will drink more breast milk when it is garlic flavored, probably due to the umami effect, but this is speculation.

1. Garlic Aroma Has a ¡°Long Hang-Time¡±

Why would this be important? In studies of nutritional-aroma conditioning, strong and long-lasting aromas formed the best food-nutrient conditioning. No one can dispute that garlic aroma lingers around forever. As an experiment, rub you fingers with a cut garlic clove and notice that the aromas will quickly infiltrate the skin mucosa due to the high lipid solubility of the garlic flavorants. In fact, your fingers will smell like garlic for almost 48 hours. Hence, during ingestion, garlic aromas permeate body tissues and form very strong aroma-calorie memories. There are other aromas almost as lingering in body tissues as garlic, and based on my personal experience they are in this order: green onions, white and yellow onions, red onions, shallots, chives, leeks, and Maui or sweet onions.

2. Garlic Boosts ¡°Umami¡± Taste

I first learned of this interaction almost twenty years ago when Japanese researchers reported a strong increase in umami flavor when garlic juice was added to basic food system. Researchers confirm that the odor of garlic boosts the flavor of MSG or umami taste in food.3 Work by E. T. Rolls illustrates that when a garlic aroma compound was dissolved in water, the umami taste became stronger. Rolls also reports that there are ¡°flavor¡± neurons in the orbitofrontal cortex when tastes and their aromas are perceived. Umami tastants in onions are especially good at activating these neurons. Remember that umami taste evolved to help encourage humans to detect and ingest proteins, and the use of garlic aromatics in food increases the rewarding tastes of proteins. This is basically neuro-driven cuisine! I encourage the curious food scientist to read the papers by E. T. Rolls and his colleagues; they contain very illuminating information on how the brain integrates and modulates food perception with pleasure.4

3. Garlic is a Special Trigeminal Stimulant

Fresh garlic burns the tongue with its own unique bite. Many of the foods we love—black pepper, hot peppers, and onions—have this burning sensation as well. The addition of this ¡°orosensation¡± gives more pleasure to the ingestion of food. The nature of this stimulation was identified by the Scripts Institute and is described in Current Biology.5 Raw or slightly cooked garlic activates the TRP (Transient Receptor Potential) channels, TRPV1 and TRPA1, which respond to temperature and chemicals. Orosensation is also called ¡°chemesthesis,¡± also known as the somatosensory aspect of taste perception. TRPV1 responds to heat and capsaicin—the hot principle in chili pepper, whereas TRPA1 responds to cold and pungent compounds like cinnamon oil, mustard oil, and wintergreen. Hence, garlic activates both these receptors in the mouth, which contributes to its amazing ability to light up the mouth with both umami flavor and orosensation. Now you know—so be sure to include it whenever you can in your own cooking! You don¡¯t have to add much; just a subtle clove or two will do. Note that garlic is one of Emeril¡¯s ingredients in his BAM! spice—fourth on the list. And during the Emeril Live! cooking show, his liberal use of chopped garlic (he usually says forty cloves!) is legendary.

The French use this taste-activation property of raw garlic in the classic preparation of Caesar salad, the initial step requires one to rub a cut raw garlic clove around the bowl. Due to the strong orosensory properties of raw garlic, this light touch provides all the flavor you need––you certainly wouldn¡¯t add chopped raw garlic to the salad.

The longer you cook garlic, the less of this burning raw taste property. Baked garlic is almost devoid of the activation of these temperature receptors because heat destroys the enzyme necessary for allicin generation. Roasting garlic, however, creates a creamy sweetness and an unusual aroma complex that is smoky in nature. Recall that in our discussion of cookivore theory, humans have a predilection for smoky and lingering aromas paired with high caloric density foods. Roasted garlic, then pairs well with rich and creamy sauces, mashed potatoes, and vinaigrettes.

TRP Summary

Wikipedia has a nice summary of the TRPs relevant to food intake.6 Note which food compounds stimulate these receptors. The take-home lesson here is that activation of TRPs creates more orosensation, which is generally related to more pleasure generation. Carl Pfaffman, a noted sensory physiologist, was fond of saying that all pleasure starts with sensation.7

- TRPV1 to TRPV4 can basically be seen as thermometers on a molecular level and are activated by a variety of stimulants. TRPV1 is, for example, activated by potentially noxious stimuli: heat, acidic pH, and capsaicin.
- TRPM5 is involved in the sensory transduction pathway of taste cells.
- ANKTM1 is a member of the TRP ion channel family implicated in the detection of tetrahydrocannabinol and mustard oil.
- TRPM8 is a calcium permeable channel, which can be activated by: low temperatures, menthol, eucalyptol, and icilin (supercooling agent).

Taste Synergism

As a demonstration on how a taste-active compound can interact with temperature, try this simple experiment. Chew a few thin mints, masticate well, and then take a sip of cold milk. You will notice an intense increase in cold oral temperature. Peppermint oils excite cold receptor channels, and the combination of the cold and mint is synergistic—many times stronger than either alone. Gum-makers and shaving-cream companies take advantage of the cooling effect by using synthetic compounds that are tight and long-lasting binders to these TRP receptors. I recently tried a Japanese mint flavored gum, and the flavor persisted for many hours in my mouth and actually interfered with the pleasure of other foods I ate later on; one can go too far in flavor persistence.


 


 


 



 
 

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